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extremely low cost 3d printable 3d printer / plotter / cnc machine
by：Transon
2020-12-07
In this note, I will discuss how to build a basic 3 axis CNC machine tool.
The machine itself is easy to find the parts and the mechanical parts are all 3D printed.
All 3D printed parts are designed by me and files are provided, although they may need to be slightly modified depending on your specific parts.
I don\'t want this to be an instruction of the type \"build this is the best machine ever.
I just wanted to illustrate what is really possible with free easy to use sdesign software and a little time.
I am 17 years old and have not been trained in CAD at all, which shows how advanced 3d design has become and anyone can reach it.
It\'s a real educational teaching, but the machine can also work.
Just a short reminder before we start, this Instructure is taking part in the Dremel 3D design contest, so if you like the work I put in and learn something from it, or just like the machine, can vote for me.
Thank you. thank you very much--Printed parts--(
All files of the part are provided below, each part has a matching name)-X-Axis Assembly-Y-Axis Assembly-Bed Mount-
This can be used as a bed for simple things like pen drawing, but if you need a very flat bed, it has mounting holes to fix the flat bed on it. -Z-Axis Assembly-
Z assembly stilts (2 Of These)-
Connecting Rod Z stilts (2 Of These)-
Motor mounting pin
These are small pins for fixing the motor.
So you don\'t have to buy screws, just print and glue. -
Stabilizer-
This is optional, but if any axis has jitter, these can be glued to the slide to tighten it so that it slides very well.
Optional: Pen Holder Z-
This is a test of the Z axis, which is a simple pen holder that moves on Z. -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Non-printed parts---Base Piece-
Simply take a large flat piece of wood, which is useful for installing everything. -Motors**-
These motors are only DVD-driven head motors.
They are very easy to remove from the dvd drive and there is already a screw that can move the different axes of the machine --Linear Rods**-
These rods are taken directly from the DVD drive laser assembly.
You can take them out of the same drive where you get the motor. -Ribbon Cable-
This ribbon cable for connecting the motor can be removed from the old computer.
If you have taken apart the old computer for the DVD drive, this should be very easy to find in the form of an IDE cable. -Driver Board-
This will be a ramp that is easy to find on ebayHere, this is a search link to offer you the option
Link ** These parts are taken out of the old DVD drive.
A total of three DVD drives are required. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
** Update the current electronic settings as required in the comments **, I will soon explain what I am using to drive the build of this machine.
For my test I am currently using the L298 motor driver and arduino mega.
I decided to do this to test, not to go to the ramp because I had the parts on hand.
Since the standard 3d printing software is easy to install, I still recommend using the ramp board.
If you have any questions about how to make everything wired and working, feel free to comment! ! -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Tools--
The tool for this project is very simple and you need a cross screwdriver, a hot glue gun and a 3D printer.
This piece holds the x and y components.
The whole piece is 3d printed and printed on its side without any support.
The motor is mounted on the mounting pin using the motor and can also be printed using the provided file.
This part slides on the x axis driven by the x motor, but now all we are talking about is the different parts of the machine.
We have yet to elaborate on how it should proceed.
Assuming you and I are using the same part, this may not always be the case, which is relatively easy to do. ---------------------------
Motor Accessories--
First of all, put your motor on the motor holder and where it will be connected.
Then take out the motor pin you printed, first through the motor hole and then through the bracket.
You should have a small piece of pin protruding from the back. .
Fix the motor firmly on the bracket and apply hot glue to the pin that stands out on the back.
Hold until the glue dries.
Repeat this step with other motors.
The steps are the same for each axis. ---------------------------
Connect X and Y together--
First, pass your linear rod through the closing hole of about inches (picture above).
Once the bar goes through, push your Y-piece up.
After the Y-piece is opened, just push the rids to another press.
Repeat this step on the y-axis to connect the bed. -------------------------
In the process, you should have a picture that looks like the fifth picture. -------------------------
In this step, we will complete the whole mechanical aspect of this machine. -------------------
First of all, we will install X-
Put Y and bed on top and assemble on wooden base.
I didn\'t design X of any mounting holes-
Assemble, so you can drill holes and screw them down, or simply stick them down with hot glue.
The most important thing is that it is flat.
As level as possible.
This is described in the first photo, but I can help if needed. -------------------
Now let\'s take the entire Z-
Assembled into one piece.
Take stilts and connect them to Z-using mounting holes and some small machine screws-Assembly.
Now put the pieces of the connecting rod into the hole and press them together.
Depending on the glue you use, you may need to have it dry for a while.
Stick the connecting rod to the gap of the stilts.
The second photo shows the adhesion of the screw and the connecting rod. -------------------
Now we\'re on Z.
Assemble the seat.
As shown in the figure, place it in the X and Y of the big hole and in the center of the line, in the corner of the bed.
Now screw the screw onto the wood base.
If you don\'t have wood screws, just hot glue.
You can see in the fourth photo how the center of the circle is aligned with the corner of the bed. --------------------------------------
You should now have a device with free moving X, Y and Z as shown in the last photo of this step.
Try to move them by hand to make sure they move freely and smoothly.
So far, I have briefly talked about the mechanical aspects of building a 3-axis gantry system.
This design can easily hold the 3D print head and convert it to a 3D printer, although all we discuss in detail here is the basic mechanical principle.
The picture above was taken by my own other 3d printer.
It is just a hot end and can be installed for use in my gantry design.
All we need is a mount.
It can also accommodate a small machining head to be used as a CNC router.
The possibility of building a good gantry system is almost infinite.
It is important to remember the power of 3D modeling.
All of these parts are designed by a 17-year-old in a week (me)on sketch up.
With more time, you can design and build anything using free software as long as you are willing to work hard.
I hope you enjoy my guidance.
Thank you for taking the time to read!
Just the last reminder, which was entered in the Dremel 3D design contest on the structures.
If you like the work I do for this, feel free to vote for me!
The machine itself is easy to find the parts and the mechanical parts are all 3D printed.
All 3D printed parts are designed by me and files are provided, although they may need to be slightly modified depending on your specific parts.
I don\'t want this to be an instruction of the type \"build this is the best machine ever.
I just wanted to illustrate what is really possible with free easy to use sdesign software and a little time.
I am 17 years old and have not been trained in CAD at all, which shows how advanced 3d design has become and anyone can reach it.
It\'s a real educational teaching, but the machine can also work.
Just a short reminder before we start, this Instructure is taking part in the Dremel 3D design contest, so if you like the work I put in and learn something from it, or just like the machine, can vote for me.
Thank you. thank you very much--Printed parts--(
All files of the part are provided below, each part has a matching name)-X-Axis Assembly-Y-Axis Assembly-Bed Mount-
This can be used as a bed for simple things like pen drawing, but if you need a very flat bed, it has mounting holes to fix the flat bed on it. -Z-Axis Assembly-
Z assembly stilts (2 Of These)-
Connecting Rod Z stilts (2 Of These)-
Motor mounting pin
These are small pins for fixing the motor.
So you don\'t have to buy screws, just print and glue. -
Stabilizer-
This is optional, but if any axis has jitter, these can be glued to the slide to tighten it so that it slides very well.
Optional: Pen Holder Z-
This is a test of the Z axis, which is a simple pen holder that moves on Z. -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Non-printed parts---Base Piece-
Simply take a large flat piece of wood, which is useful for installing everything. -Motors**-
These motors are only DVD-driven head motors.
They are very easy to remove from the dvd drive and there is already a screw that can move the different axes of the machine --Linear Rods**-
These rods are taken directly from the DVD drive laser assembly.
You can take them out of the same drive where you get the motor. -Ribbon Cable-
This ribbon cable for connecting the motor can be removed from the old computer.
If you have taken apart the old computer for the DVD drive, this should be very easy to find in the form of an IDE cable. -Driver Board-
This will be a ramp that is easy to find on ebayHere, this is a search link to offer you the option
Link ** These parts are taken out of the old DVD drive.
A total of three DVD drives are required. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
** Update the current electronic settings as required in the comments **, I will soon explain what I am using to drive the build of this machine.
For my test I am currently using the L298 motor driver and arduino mega.
I decided to do this to test, not to go to the ramp because I had the parts on hand.
Since the standard 3d printing software is easy to install, I still recommend using the ramp board.
If you have any questions about how to make everything wired and working, feel free to comment! ! -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Tools--
The tool for this project is very simple and you need a cross screwdriver, a hot glue gun and a 3D printer.
This piece holds the x and y components.
The whole piece is 3d printed and printed on its side without any support.
The motor is mounted on the mounting pin using the motor and can also be printed using the provided file.
This part slides on the x axis driven by the x motor, but now all we are talking about is the different parts of the machine.
We have yet to elaborate on how it should proceed.
Assuming you and I are using the same part, this may not always be the case, which is relatively easy to do. ---------------------------
Motor Accessories--
First of all, put your motor on the motor holder and where it will be connected.
Then take out the motor pin you printed, first through the motor hole and then through the bracket.
You should have a small piece of pin protruding from the back. .
Fix the motor firmly on the bracket and apply hot glue to the pin that stands out on the back.
Hold until the glue dries.
Repeat this step with other motors.
The steps are the same for each axis. ---------------------------
Connect X and Y together--
First, pass your linear rod through the closing hole of about inches (picture above).
Once the bar goes through, push your Y-piece up.
After the Y-piece is opened, just push the rids to another press.
Repeat this step on the y-axis to connect the bed. -------------------------
In the process, you should have a picture that looks like the fifth picture. -------------------------
In this step, we will complete the whole mechanical aspect of this machine. -------------------
First of all, we will install X-
Put Y and bed on top and assemble on wooden base.
I didn\'t design X of any mounting holes-
Assemble, so you can drill holes and screw them down, or simply stick them down with hot glue.
The most important thing is that it is flat.
As level as possible.
This is described in the first photo, but I can help if needed. -------------------
Now let\'s take the entire Z-
Assembled into one piece.
Take stilts and connect them to Z-using mounting holes and some small machine screws-Assembly.
Now put the pieces of the connecting rod into the hole and press them together.
Depending on the glue you use, you may need to have it dry for a while.
Stick the connecting rod to the gap of the stilts.
The second photo shows the adhesion of the screw and the connecting rod. -------------------
Now we\'re on Z.
Assemble the seat.
As shown in the figure, place it in the X and Y of the big hole and in the center of the line, in the corner of the bed.
Now screw the screw onto the wood base.
If you don\'t have wood screws, just hot glue.
You can see in the fourth photo how the center of the circle is aligned with the corner of the bed. --------------------------------------
You should now have a device with free moving X, Y and Z as shown in the last photo of this step.
Try to move them by hand to make sure they move freely and smoothly.
So far, I have briefly talked about the mechanical aspects of building a 3-axis gantry system.
This design can easily hold the 3D print head and convert it to a 3D printer, although all we discuss in detail here is the basic mechanical principle.
The picture above was taken by my own other 3d printer.
It is just a hot end and can be installed for use in my gantry design.
All we need is a mount.
It can also accommodate a small machining head to be used as a CNC router.
The possibility of building a good gantry system is almost infinite.
It is important to remember the power of 3D modeling.
All of these parts are designed by a 17-year-old in a week (me)on sketch up.
With more time, you can design and build anything using free software as long as you are willing to work hard.
I hope you enjoy my guidance.
Thank you for taking the time to read!
Just the last reminder, which was entered in the Dremel 3D design contest on the structures.
If you like the work I do for this, feel free to vote for me!
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